How to plan your visit to Saihoji (koke dera) in Kyoto
If you are interested in Japanese Zen temples and gardens, make sure to visit 西芳寺 (Saihoji) in Kyoto, which is also known as 苔寺 (koke dera, moss temple). The garden was designed by Muso Soseki, highly respected Zen priest in the 14th century who is known as the father of karesansui (Zen rock garden) design. It is also the temple Steve Jobs loved, who practiced Zen.
How to get to Saihoji?
Saihoji is located by 嵐山 (Aarashiayma), scenic areas that have been known for beautiful autoumn leaves for hundreds of years. There are many other tourist destinations in the area including 渡月橋 (Togetsukyo). Katsura Rikyu (Imperial Villa), one of the highest rated piece of traditional Japanese architecture, is less than 4km from Saihoji. If you are into Japanese gardens and architecture, you may plan to visit Saihoji and Katsura Rikyu on a same day. Both require a reservation in advance. I would recommend Saihoji in the mooring and Katsura in the afternoon, as Katsura is larger and have more things to see. (although you are allowed about 60 minutes for both places)
Kyoto is an ancient capital. All the tourist destinations are relatively concentrated in a small area, so taxi (and bus) will be the easiest way to get around. Saihoji is about 20 minutes from Kyoto Station (about 2500-3000 yen).
Here’s some details about a reservation to visit Saihoji.
For those living abroad, “We will accept reservations from 2 months before your desired visit date” via airmail. Visit their reservation website for more details.
- Admission is 3000 yen per person, and cash only.
- Bring a calligraphy brush for copying sutra (or you may buy the brush at Saihoji temple).
- Children under 12 years old are not allowed.
Saijoji websita also states that: “From June 1st, 2021, online application is also available(only in Japanese). English version is now being prepared. Thank you for your understanding.”
How to plan a visit to Saihoji?
As you can imagine, Saihoji is a very popular destination. It’s not clear how fast international travelers will come back to Japan now that the pandemic restrictions have been eased, but it may be safe to assume that the place will be busy unless you plan your trip carefully.
Make a reservation as soon as you can. If couldn’t do it on time but trying to visit the place in the last minutes, have someone in Japan (maybe ask your hotel) if you could use the online “walk-in” registration option, which is available 2 weeks before your planned visit day till the day before. (It’s only in Japanese as of October 2022)
if you visit the place during busy seasons, you will only have about 60 minutes to patriciate in a service and stroll around the garden, which is not small. There are three areas:
- Saihoji Temple
- Koke (moss) garden surrounding the 黄金池 (Ogonchi, or golden pond) on the ground level
- 枯山水 (karesansui) on the upper level
Koke (moss) garden on the ground level
Saiho-ji garden is two-layered. The ground level applies 池泉回遊式庭園 (chisen kaiyu-shiki teien). It is an old method that designs a garden surrounding artificial water body (usually a couple of ponds connected by small tributaries). Visitors enjoy strolling around, using winding lanes that connect facilities scattered around the water. It originates from shinden-zukuri, residential architecture developed for aristocrats in Heian-era (8th-12th century). Back then, this type of garden was literally considered as a gateway to “jodo,” pure land of Buddhas to which you could ascend when you die.
Karesansui on the upper level
The upper level looks very different. Whereas the ground level is filled with almost excessive amount of green, the upper level shows more direct, crude face of nature. This is where you will find one of the oldest surviving 枯山水 (kare-sansui), or Zen rock garden. Muso Soseki is known as the father of kare-sansui. The history of kare-sanusi started here.